^{MT&W Oracle GMT @calibre321}

The avant-garde Oracle GMT from MT&W

Article by Marc Levesque; photography by Brent Robillard

From vintage to avant-garde

MT&W is a group of collectors based in the UK, Hong Kong, and Italy. They are passionate vintage watch enthusiasts. Their goal is to capture the antique look and feel of a classic watch while also bringing something new to the table. They have seen great success with their Vintage Chronograph collections, which have sold out. However, what they submitted for review today differs from their usual offerings.

The Oracle GMT is their first non-chronograph mechanical watch, showcasing an avant-garde design that does not heavily borrow from the styles of the 1970s. However, it reminds me of a movie from 1982 that starred a young Jeff Bridges and took place in the internal 3-D graphical world of computers, featuring intensely geometric landscapes. Yes, I’m talking about “Tron.” When you turn off the lights, you will see it too.

Key Features of the MT&W Oracle GMT

Case and crown

The Oracle’s case measures 40mm across the bezel and 48mm from lug tip to lug tip, which is right in the middle of the sweet spot, or “Goldilocks zone,” as I have heard it referred to in the past. With a thickness of only 12.6mm, it easily slides under any cuff and should fit various wrist sizes. Its surface is nearly entirely brushed except for two pronounced polished chamfers that run along the edges on either side of the case. This detail makes it look even slimmer on the wrist.

Both the crown and the case back are screw-down components, ensuring a water resistance up to 200 meters. Both are also signed with the MT&W logo. Interestingly, the case back has no additional markings, which is refreshing. Do we really need reminders that the crystal is sapphire and that the watch has a specific water resistance rating? I believe more brands should follow this example.

Bezel and dial

Here’s where things start to get interesting. The polished bidirectional steel bezel features 60-click action and is capped with sapphire. Beneath that glass is a 24-hour track painted in BGW9 Swiss Superluminova. The watch dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the underside. It features a pie-pan design with a geometrically shaped hour track painted with BGW9 Swiss Superluminova for enhanced visibility.

The watch’s central hands are skeletonized and coated in the same luminous paint, although the GMT hand glows only at its tip. This resemblance to Tron becomes particularly evident in dim lighting. This design also evokes certain Ming timepieces, especially their 37.02 Minimalist, though it is more of an inspiration than a direct copy. There is a date window at 3 o’clock, which could have benefited from color coordination. The entire package glows very nicely, but it must be noted that the bezel glows slightly dimmer than the dial and hands.

At the center of the pie-pan dial is a striking black disc engraved with a replica of Oracle Bone Script, an ancient writing system over 3,000 years old. This script, known for its complex characters, was used by diviners to communicate with the spiritual realm and seek guidance. The engraving captures the essence of a time when divination was essential, filling the dial with historical significance and a connection to ancient wisdom.

Movement

Seiko’s own NH34 GMT automatic movement is at the core of this timepiece. This movement has played a significant role in making GMT functionality accessible to a broader audience. When it was introduced three years ago, it created quite a stir and effectively democratized this beloved complication. I do not believe in the term ” true GMT, ” so many watch media personalities throw around. The watch can display either a secondary time zone or not. There is no true or false!

What I know is that there are Caller GMT watches, and Traveler GMT watches. This particular watch is a Caller GMT, which means that the GMT hand can be adjusted via the crown in the first position. Turning the crown one way changes the date; turning it the other way moves the GMT hand around the dial. This feature allows you to keep track of a time zone outside your home time. Additionally, the quick-setting date feature is quite convenient.

The Seiko NH34 GMT automatic movement operates at 21,600 beats per hour and features 24 jewels, bi-directional winding, and approximately 41 hours of power reserve. The NH34 is adjusted from the factory to keep time within a range of +40 to -20 seconds per day. In my experience, most of these movements perform well within those standards, with many maintaining accuracy that meets COSC standards. It is an exceptionally robust movement, as are all Seiko movements, and it should last years between service intervals.

Bracelet

Designing a bracelet for a watch presents a significant challenge, particularly regarding the end links. If the case is curvy while the bracelet links are sharp and flat, creating a seamless integration between the two can be difficult. While I believe MT&W did their best with their materials, I would have preferred the end links to be sharper to match the links more cohesively. That said, they aren’t terrible; they somewhat work and look pretty good when worn on the wrist, especially compared to how they appear lying flat on a desk.

The links taper towards the clasp, but not excessively. In this case, a little taper is better than none at all. The clasp is relatively straightforward, featuring twin opening triggers and five micro-adjustment holes. I know you might be expecting an on-the-fly adjustment system. I also appreciate a nice tool-free adjustment system but often question its necessity. My answer is usually no. Is it enjoyable to have? Absolutely! Is it mandatory? It shouldn’t be. After all, I managed without it for over 30 years. I’m perfectly fine with that as long as I can adjust to the correct size.

Specs

MT&W Oracle GMT

Final Thoughts

Now, after considering everything mentioned, what if I told you that the retail price for this watch is only $349.00 USD? Would the absence of a micro-adjustment clasp still be as significant to you? In a world where prices are continually rising—due to inflation and “greedflation”—isn’t it remarkable to find a product that offers excellent value for your money? I am genuinely amazed that MT&W has included so much GMT watch goodness at such an affordable price.

If you’re in the market for a GMT sports watch that combines an upscale look and feel with impressive functionality, consider the MT&W Oracle GMT. This watch not only performs well at depths of up to 200 meters, but it’s also budget-friendly, making it an excellent choice for both your wrist and your wallet. For more information, please visit the MT&W website.

https://thecalibratedwrist.com/2025/02/17/the-avant-garde-oracle-gmt-from-mtw/